I am a horticulturist, writer and photographer who lives on Tamborine Mountain, one of the world's beautiful places to live with plenty of sunshine, good rainfall, moderate temperatures, lush rainforest, splendid views of both the ocean to the east and the mountains to the west. I love writing about the place in which I live, in all its moods and seasons. Besides gardening I love good literature and poetry, bushwalking, birdwatching, history, Japanese language and culture, and music of several kinds.
Denali – the very name has magic. To the Athabascans who speak the Koyukon language it means ‘The High One’, a fitting name for the highest mountain in North America.
Donald The Trump wishes it to be once again called Mt McKinley, named for a particularly dull president of the Republican persuasion, distinguished only by his assassination. But most Alaskans I have met, and those from the Lower 48 states, prefer the original name for its musical quality.
Denali is a magnificent mountain and all the more powerful and mysterious for being rarely seen. I am one of the lucky few who have seen it, three times this past June, and I have a badge to prove it – now worn proudly on my down puffer jacket.
The mountain is the crowning jewel in the splendid crown that is Denali National Park and Preserve, 24,464 square kilometres (9,446 sq miles) of mostly unspoiled wilderness. It’s all mountain and tundra and boreal forest, the latter consisting mainly of skinny Black Spruce. This latter treescape would be monotonous if not for the backdrop of snowy peaks and the pale glaciated waters running through.
The tundra, by contrast, is undulating and varied by grasslands, swamps, mixed forest and thickets of alder and willow – the haunt of bears black and brown and much other wildlife besides. Wolves live here and elk and moose and caribou. Wolverines, too, and squirrels and Snowshoe Hares. Even bison. In Denali the wildlife is plentiful because this land is too harsh and underlaid with permafrost to permit agriculture or horticulture of any other kind of culture. For the indigenous peoples it’s always been a source of bounty in summer but the long, harsh winters are an endurance test.
Today, those Alaskans, indigenous and of European origin, who remain in their small, scruffy, hardship communities all year round have got snowmobiles and wi fi and frozen/tinned food and TV and alcohol and drugs and social services of various kinds to get them through. Planes, too, when the weather permits flying which it often doesn’t. But it’s still an isolated few months.
My first day in Denali was a long bus ride to the little town of Talkeetna (below), where most expeditions to climb Mt. Denali take off. On YouTube it looked like a pretty little town in summer but the reality is less appealing; a rackety tourist trap with dirty toilets. The buildings have an appealingly traditional look and the inhabitants are friendly…well, they would be, wouldn’t they, when there is little except tourism to keep the township going. In the siding was something that interested me more, the Denali Star stop-and-go train that as its name implies runs through from Fairbanks to Anchorage. Many people choose to live off the grid along the route, close to the railroad tracks and when they want to board the train they just flag it down.
My tour group took the Gold Star service which doesn’t stop anywhere but instead offers comfortable seats in bubble-top carriages, a good lunch, clean loos, snacks and cocktails while the hosts in each carriage offer historical and other information. In truth, this route is scenic but the scenery gets monotonous after a while because the boreal forest, its Black Spruce trees dying for long stretches from attack by looper beetles, offer little variety. The rivers are dramatic but they are gone in a glimpse.
That’s not our Gold Star train at top left but me at Talkeetna siding in front of the stop-and-go Denali Star service. Our Gold Star service was much posher, as you can see from the other two pics – including a very talented cocktail bar host. Lower pic shows some of the more spectacular scenery.
Here below you can ride the rails with me a little way. It’s a fun trip but you can see what I mean about the monotony of all those Black Spruces.
Still, there is something rather wonderful about sipping a fine local gin and tonic while watching the world rush by.
After a night at the Grand Denali Lodge, set high on a ledge with great views of mountains and the Nenana River, I was up early for my first full day in the Denali National Park. There is only one road through here so your chances of seeing a lot of wildlife are limited, especially when you are on an old school bus full of people. The guide and driver (both women on my trip) do their best but on a hot day (as it Was, in early June) the animals stay under cover.
The brochures, of course, show bears walking along the road and caribou everywhere but the reality is that, like Denali itself, exciting wildlife is not so easily glimpsed. I remembered younger days when I and my husband would have hiked and camped that country but for most of us it’s a matter of riding that single road, quite busy with tour buses and settling for splendid scenery and the fun of passive “hunting” for wild creatures with binoculars. Mine were the most powerful on this trip (I’m a birdwatcher) and so only I got a reasonably good glimpse of Dall Sheep high up on the crags – for the others on board the sheep might as well have been white boulders. We saw a Snow-shoe Hare and, to my delight, a Willow Ptarmigan by the side of the track. And that was all. But there were other treats, such as the marvellous Athabascan woman, Shirley, who entertained us with stories about the park and her people and showed us, with appealing irony, a tribal dance.
Shirley, who keeps Athabascan history and customs alive for the children of her own people, as well as tourists, picks a member of our tour group to give her the beat while, tongue firmly in cheek I suspect, she performs a native dance. What a character!
Usually I dislike this kind of faux native experience, put on for tourists; us condescending to the locals, them laughing at our gullibility. But Shirley was different and what she had to say was worth hearing. Several times on the journey our driver/guide kept assuring us how much the Alaskans “loved” their native peoples. She said it so many times I wondered why she felt the need to do so. It came across as patronising though I know she didn’t mean it that way.
And it’s simply not true or, rather, wishful thinking. I met a few white Alaskans who felt that the Athabascans, Klingit and other indigenous inhabitants were idle hangers on to the coat tails of American society – getting education, health, plane transport etc for nothing while white Alaskans were doing it tough.
“Easy to say we took away their land and their traditional ways but we have given most of those back, and more,” one man told me when I sat next to him on a park bench in Anchorage. “Every aspect of life is easy for them today – store-bought food, snow machines, aeroplanes, boats with motors, high-powered guns, free health care and education, entertainment. They get everything we get and more – and don’t let anyone tell you differently. And yes, they also get the bad things, like drink and drugs. But, as with our kids, they make their choices. There’s a fair bit of murder and domestic violence and brawling in those so-called native communities.”
This last claim is born out by local media bulletins. And in Anchorage, at least, the homeless street people appear to be mostly indigenous. But then, I ask myself, what is an Alaskan? I met some in Anchorage but the hotel staff consisted of Russians, other Europeans and Asians. Chinese and Indians run most of the shops and eateries. The guides and drivers in Denali are usually students from the lower 48; the wonderful naturalist guide who took me on a long hike through bear country was Bolivian. Hunters and recreational fisherfolk can hire indigenous guides from the interior but I never got to meet one.
Only in the little coastal tourist towns on the fjords do you get to meet boat crews and others who are Alaskans born and raised – and even there the shops, despite their “locally manufactured” signs, are operated by Chinese, Japanese, Indians (from India) and other outlanders.
But…back to Denali. The park tour is still exhilarating but on our tour we were offered two highlights. One was a talk by Jimmy Hendricks (yes, he’s heard all the jokes), a true local who has climbed Mt. Denali. He turned out to be one of the most inspiring speakers I’ve ever heard, yet so simple and down-to-earth in his presentation. Denali, I discovered, can be more dangerous to climb than anything in the Himalayas, mainly because of the unpredictable weather. It’s killed a lot of people over the years. Jimmy and his two companions, one a woman, took a month to reach the summit. A month! Thank goodness they filmed it; I found it quite the most interesting climbing video I’ve ever seen – and I am not usually interested in mountaineering.
It’s been said that the state bird of Alaska is the mosquito! Big as eagles, the locals will tell you, and twice as fierce. They weren’t in plague proportions when I was there in June, and though they hovered around us in the forest, their whine was worse than their bite!
There are plenty of good hikes around the small Denali tourist village and I did a couple of them, one with a guide. No bears but the scenery was great and the plantlife fascinating. We saw half a moose; the front half was stuck in a bush, eating, so all we got was the bum.
The township itself is dusty, hot (on a fine summer’s day) and uninspiring. A tourist trap where I had the worst sushi ever – had to throw it in the bin. To be fair, I then went down the street (it’s not long) and had an excellent crepe. Made and served by students. And all around are the mountains and forest and the river rushes through, milky with snow melt.
All tours of Denali start with an introductory talk in the visitor centre, perched overlooking a lake. Fluffy little Willow catkins are everywhere in June, including around the Grand Denali Lodge, high above the town. We toured the park in this bus.
An evening hike through the forest with guide Adrian revealed all sorts of wonders – squirrels nests and food storage, wildflowers galore, botanical curiosities, a rushing river and a few birds – but no bears or moose.
I left Denali felt that I had not really been able to do it justice. I had expected too much from it and too little from myself. I should have seen it when I was younger and could venture further and experience it all more fully.
But I’m glad to have seen even a small part of it – one of the few really wild places still left in the world.
(This post is an ongoing project with new Australian rainforest plants – and new information about those plants – being included as I find the time to do so. I am always happy to answer questions.)
Syzygium leuhmanni or Riberry, with and without coppery red new growth.
Lillypilly is the name given to several trees and shrubs in the genus Syzygium, though several of them also go by the common name of satinash because the inner bark has a satiny texture.
Lillypillies occur in most rainforest and closely associated habitats in Australia; one species, Syzygium wilsonnii, is found along the Gippsland coast and Wilson’s Promontory in Victoria, extending north to just over the Queensland – New South Wales border. S. paniculatum is found in coastal scrubs around Woollongong and Sydney but no further north while the lovely S. oleosum can also be found that far south but extends north to the border. The area from the mid north coast of New South Wales through to south east Queensland boasts many lillypilly species but by far the greatest number is found in north Queensland where the rainfall and humidity are high and a rich feast of soil nutrients readily available year round.
Yet despite their obvious preference for moist environments most Syzygium species can tolerate long, dry periods and some do well in the low rainfall dry scrubs, such as Queenland’s Bunya Mountains, provided they get plenty of rain in summer. This is because their roots, like those of so many Australian rainforest plants, are well adapted to seeking out water. They have no tap root (except for very young seedlings)but rely, instead, on a wide spread of fibrous roots that grow thicker as the tree/shrub grows higher and the canopy develops. A growing tree is a thirsty tree! This spreading root system, extending in mature trees beyond the canopy, also adds stability.
Leaves and fruit
The genus is readily identified in the field by certain features. Leaves are small to medium in length (with some exceptions), opposite, simple, margins entire, distinguished by many close, parallel lateral veins, central vein clearly visible, lots of oil dots which may or may not be visible without a lens, tips either blunt or drawn out to a long “drip tip” point.
One of the most attractive features about all species in this genus is the new foliage which, depending on species, can be deep red, copper, bronze or gold.
The fruit, too, is attractive. Most have bright pink or magenta berries though some species have white, purple or blue. All these fruits are attractive to birds and other wildlife; some are palatable to humans especially the popular Riberry (S. leuhmanni) whose fruit makes excellent jam.
Lillypillies are close to the top of the list when it comes to attractive plants in the rainforest – they are good-looking from top to toe, with interesting bark, lush and spreading canopies full of leaves, colourful with flowers and berries and new growth throughout much of the year.
This means of course that they make excellent garden plants, particularly if lightly but regularly pruned when young to make a good, compact shape. They can be temperamental when it comes to flowering (and thus fruiting). Some years they are prolific and a sight to behold. Other years the flowers and fruit are sparse or non-existent. The cause is not really known – wet spring, dry spring, other seasonal factors – theories abound but no consistent theory has yet evolved. My own observations over many years indicate that dry springs DO bring on more flowers but then again I have known periods of almost no rain for three months in the subtropics when certain lillypilly species haven’t produce a single blossom! And unusually wet late winter/springs when they have. When it comes to climate, trees know things that we humans don’t!
Pests and diseases
The only pests that worry lillypillies are psyllids, tiny little critters that show up as pinkish-brown pimples on the leaves, making the plant look unsightly. It’s been claimed that unhealthy plants are more prone to psyllid attack and maybe that’s true but in my experience perfectly healthy specimens suffer attack. One that’s already suffering stress may give up and die but this is rare; the main problem is that a tree/shrub with gnarled and pimpled leaves looks unsightly. White oil or Confidor can be sprayed on affected leaves; my own method is to trim off unsightly growth in young plants when I see it (this requires a daily patrol!) and otherwise leave it to run its course. Until the next infestation! Birds and beneficial inects do a good job in my garden at keeping psyllid infestation to a minimum.
And now let’s take a look at the most familiar members of this fascinating genus…those that we see in the forests around us and those that we grow in our gardens.
Syzygium australe(Brush Cherry, Creek Satinash)
This is the most common lillypilly found in our gardens and it comes in many forms, shapes and sizes because it has proved a versatile breeder from seed and clone. And it’s very, very easy to grow, in the production nursery and in the home garden.
Vital statistics.
Leaves vary variable, elliptic to obovate with a blunt tip or small point. Up to 8 cm long. Lots of lateral veins. Surface dark green and glossy, undersurface paler, new growth varies from pale green to pale coppery reddish-pink. Oil dots scattered and visible with a hand lens. Flowers white and fluffy, born at the end of branch. Fruit roughly pear-shaped, small, pink, fleshy with a single seed.
It’s found mostly in coastal and nearby mountain forests from mid south coastal New South Wales to just over the Queensland border, which means it thrives in several different soil types and temperatures.
In the garden
This makes it very handy for the home garden so your first decision is how big do you want it to grow? The average garden centre will have several from which to choose and each variety will have a different height estimation, so read the label. I use the word “estimation” because while a lot of work goes into breeding these shrubs/trees through selection, it’s impossible for anyone to forecast just how high an individual plant will grow – much depends on soil and climate.
Syzygium australe is a battler, able to thrive in any kind of soil, once established, and tolerant of dry periods. It’s fast-growing in the early stages and will grow faster and thrive better in good soil with plentiful watering – like any plant. Fertilising is not really necessary in reasonably good sandy loam soil which is regularly mulched but a bit of liquid feeding in the first year after planting, during spring-summer, will speed up growth and improve leaf quality.
It takes sun or shade but will form a more compact shape and better leaf colour with plenty of morning sun. All llillypillies grown in full sun develop bushier shapes and don’t grow as tall as they do in the rainforest where they have to compete with other trees for sunlight. So it makes an attractive single feature tree.
Syzygium australe has one big weakness – it’s prone to attack by psyllid insects which distort the foliage. They don’t kill the tree/ shrub but do make it look unsightly and a severe attack on new growth can set growth back for an entire season. For years I tried various remedies, none (except pruning off the galls) of which were truly effective. Now there is at least one remedy, a pill containing Confidor which I used to use on azaleas to control lace bugs. It’s said to work really well.
Also, there are no varieties on sale which are said to be psyllid-resistant. I remain sceptical about such claims but they may be worth trying.
This is a good plant for hedging or as a single feature shrub/tree and prunes well. Trim regularly, and lightly when young to promote good form.
Syzygium leuhmanni (Riberry)
This is one of the loveliest trees to be foun anywhere and though if left unchecked it can grow too large for the home garden- to 30 metres where water is readily available it can easily be kept in check by regular pruning when young.
It makes a good hedge, as well as a handsome feature tree and is not as prone to psyllid attack as S. australe (above). The white flowers are pretty but when the bright pink new growth covers the tree in spring it’s truly magnificent. And the fruits (below) are the most edible of all the lillypilly fruits being crisp, juicy, sweet and full of pectin so that it makes good jam. Fruit should be picked young, before the bugs find it.
Vital statistics
Leaves (see photo below) are usually obovate, gracefully rounded into an almost globular shape, or they may also be narrower and lancelolate, drawn out to a long, narrow point. They are a glossy green, darkening with age, smooth and hairless, paler underneath, lateral veins close and parallel and slightly angled towards the tip. Oil dots are numerous and easy to see with a hand lens.
Fruit is a bright pink, round, very juicy and crisp when young. It makes excellent jam.
In the garden
Unless you have a garden of half a hectare or more this tree needs to be kept low and trimmed. It can be used for hedging if trimmed regularly. It needs little care beyond light fertilising in its first year; mulching will also help it establish strong roots. But these roots can be a problem because this lillypilly needs a lot of water (though it will survive up to three months without) and the roots will go searching for it. So don’t plant it near the house!
Syzygium wilsonii– Powder Puff Lillypilly
The large red fluffy flowers of this species makes it one of the prettiest small lillypillies for the home garden.
Syzygium wilsonii comes from far north Queensland but does pretty well, once established, anywhere there is plenty of available water and no severe frost.
This plant usually grows no higher than three metres but should be kept trimmed to develop an attractive shape.
Vital statistics
Leaves are typically lanceolate, mid to dark green and quite tough. Lateral veins are numerous, with large oil dots visible under a lens. The branches usually develop an attractive drooping habit and the lovely pink new growth also hangs down which makes this plant spectacular in spring.
The flowers are spectacular too; big and pinkish red pompoms that, like the new growth, hang down from the branches.
In the garden
Choose a spot in sun or light shade that’s protected from cold winds. Mulch and fertilise lightly in the first year until you are sure the s shrub is growing well. When it reaches about two metres high, begin regular tip pruning to promote density. Do this in autumn. You’ll be rewarded with a mass of red flowers in summer.
Fruit are unusual in that they may be drupes (one seed) or berries (several seeds). They are white, slightly pear-shaped and palatable – but only just! You can make jam with them but it will need a lot of sweetening.
A hybrid of S. leuhmanni and S. wilsonii, sold as “Cascade” is a lovely smallish shrub for the home garden – it has the best qualities of both its parents with attractively drooping foliage, bright pink new growth and big, fluffy pompom flowers.
Syzygium oleosum (Blue Lillypilly)
A young Blueberry, still at the shrub stage and needing trimming for a tighter, more rounded shape.
After Syzygium luehmanni, the Riberry, the Blue Lillypilly is my favourite in this outstanding tree/shrub species and proves my point that there is a Lillypilly for just about any garden except snowy climates and deserts. Blue Lillypilly is a neat little tree with dense, glossy foliage that has a delightful fragrance.
Vital statistics
Leaves are small(to 10 cms), narrow to rounded in the middle with a long point and los of faintly visible lateral veings. If you hold them up to the light you can see lots of little, bright dots. These oil dots are common to all lillypillies but are most easily visible in Blue Lillypilly and are responsible for its strong perfume. The berry ispurplish blue when ripe, not really edible unless you are starving! There is a little crown of sepals on top. Flowers are white and fluffy. New growth is a bronzy red.
In the garden
This tree takes most soils and conditions but grows fastest and best in well-drained basalt soils where underground water is available most of the year. Mulch when young and water regularly until established, after which it will look after its own water needs. Trim saplings so that in time they form a tight, shapely tree. This lillypilly makes a good hedge if trimmed regularly to increase density.
Syzygium smithii (Lillypilly, Satinash)
This was long considered the definitive “lillypilly” and still carries that common name without any addition. The same goes for the common name “satinash” – several lillypillies carry this name but always with some other descripor e.g. “Creek Satinash”. Goodness knows why because the inner bark of lillypillies does not appear all that “satiny” to me and the genus owes nothing to the European Ash except early whitefella nostalgia. Nor do the simple leaves bear any resemblance to those of the European Ash which are compound and serrated.
If I was to be given the task of renaming this plant for common use I’d probably call it Smith’s Lillypilly or Garden Lillypilly or name it for one of the great Australian nursery propagators who have done so much to bring this plant into our gardens and parks.
It’s just SO useful for many purposes and grows west of the Great Dividing Range as well as from southern coastal Victoria to the tropics. In fact it amazes me that when I wrote Gardening With Australian Rainforest Plants, back in 2001, with Ralph Bailey, that we didn’t give this plant more of a mention. In any case, in the past couple of decades I have learned to love it a lot more!
Vital statistics:
S. smithii has three common forms, “normal” with the usual lanceolate to obovate Syzigium leaves up to 16cm long, narrow-leaved (about half that length and linear to a fine point) and small-leaved (small, sometimes almost rounded leaves with blunter points). Oil dots and lateral veins are visible. Flowers are small and white, fruits are purplish pink and edible but not as palatable as, say, Riberry fruits.
In the garden:
One advantage of this plant – which rarely grows to more than four metres high – is that it makes a good substitute in warmer climates for traditional northern hemisphere garden hedges. The small-leaved form is particularly good for outlining parterres in formal gardens.
Trim regularly to make dense hedge. A good plant for pots. In the ground, mulch when young, sprinkling an all purpose fertiliser such as Dynamic Lifter on the soil before you lay the mulching material. Water well during the first few months. No care is needed after that.
Syzigium moorei (Rose Apple)
Although this tree is rather too large for the home garden I have included it because it is becoming increasingly rare, due to habitat destruction, and thus encouraging people to grow it on their own land will help preserve the species. If you have acreage, make sure you plant it because it is an attractive tree.
I don’t know why it is commonly known as “Rose Apple” because the fruits are white with a pale green tinge and look nothing like apples, though they are large for a Lillypilly.
Vital statistics
The trunk of this large tree can be brown to grey and features distinctive soft tissue-like scales if you look closely. Leaves are typically “Lillypilly”; simple, opposite, obovate to oblong-elliptical with a small, blunt point; lots of oil dots (seen through a lens) and parallel veins. Plus a fairly obvious intramarginal vein. Fluffy flowers are a gorgeous watermelon red, cauliferous (born along the branches) in clusters. Fruit is edible but boring.
In the garden
Give Rose Apple plenty of space and don’t plant too close to buildings. It can be part of a boundary or cluster planting but also makes a fine single specimen out in the open where it won’t grow as tall. Prune the tips lightly and regularly to keep it low (6 – 8 metres) and bushy. Water well and fertilise lightly with blood and bone or chook poo when young.
Of course all rainforest trees bear flowers. Many of them are too large for the home garden but some are just the right size and will reward you with beautiful flowers in season. It may take some years – up to seven – for the trees to bear their first flowers and fruit – but they are worth waiting for!
(NOTE: The trees on this page are well suited to growing in the warmer parts of the United States and other parts of the world where there is no ice, snow or heavy frost. If you need further advice, just email me or use the comments section below).
Beach Acronychia, Logan Apple (Acronychia imperforata)
This is a nice little bush tucker tree, growing to about 15 metres, very common in coastal areas north from Port Stephens in New South Wales.
Vital statistics
Flowers are a bit like apple blossom, born in creamy-white clusters throughout summer to the end of April, four-petalled and very attractive to bees and butterflies.
Leaves are simple, opposite and 1-foliate (bump/joint at the bottom where leaf joins petiole); stiff, very bright green, elliptic to ovate, up to about 12 cm long with a notch at the end.
Fruit is a pale yellow drupe, rounded to slightly pear-shaped. Tart but edible and very good for making jam and chutney, or cooked with sugar into a syrupy dressing over ice cream.
Bark is distinctive; smooth but with fine vertical cracks.
In the garden
This is a tough customer! It will grow almost anywhere but does best near the coast with sandy soils, tolerating long, dry periods as well as sea winds and salt spray. An excellent screening plant.
No need to fertilise, nor water once established. Prune lightly for good shape and desired height.
The similar North Queensland tree/shrub Acronychia acidula (Lemon Aspen) has creamy white, round, usually slightly ribbed fruit which is even tastier than A. imperforata.
Blueberry Ash – (Eleocarpus reticulatus)
Vital statistics
Flowers: Small, pink or white and fringed, like delicate little lampshades or ballerina skirts. The variety sold as “Prima Donna” in garden centres has pink flowers.
Leaves: Oblong or obovate, elliptical, up to about 12 cm long with strongly marked lateral veins. Domatia form small, reddish pockets in the vein angles, tough. 1-foliate, though the swollen joint where it joins the stem may not be prominent. As with all Eleocarpus the leaves turn an attractive red when they fall.
Fruit: An oval drupe, small, a bright blue that attracts birds.
In the garden
This plant occurs naturally in most types of rainforest and also adjoining wet sclerophyll (eucalypt) forest so will tolerate most conditions including light frost when established. Quite easy to propagate from seed.
Give it plenty of space from other trees/shrubs and once it gets to a couple of metres high start pruning the tips so it develops a good growth habit. This tree or large shrub grows very tall and straggly, like most rainforest species, if it is allowed to grow untrimmed or is planted too close to other trees. This may inhibit flowering when young but once it has reached maturity it will reward you with a spectacular burst of colour every spring.
FLAME TREE (Brachychiton acerifolius)
A familiar tree to Australians everywhere because it is one of the few of our rainforest trees to really make it big in the cultivated landscape. The name “Flame Tree” is also used for the African Tulip Tree (now a week in Queensland) but the only thing the two species have in common is red flowers. In winter to early spring this gorgeous tree warms and brightens our streets and gardens wherever it’s planted, while in the tropical and subtropical forest it stands out like…well…a flame among all the greenness of the canopy.
Vital statistics:
The large, simple, alternate leaves, margins lobed or entire are borne on long stems (petioles). They are shed in winter. Flowers can vary from vivid scarlet to a deeper red and are very showy,each one a little five-petalled bell borne in clusters. The seed pods are shaped like boats and can be used in floral decoraion. The yelowish seeds are edible. The bark is distinctive; smooth and lightish green with fawn-coloured roughish horizontal lesions and blotches.
In the garden
This tree is too large for most home gardens though it takes a long time to reach maturity and tends not to grow taller than about 20 metres when in full sun. Pruning when young will keep it under control and promote denser branch growth. It grows almost everywhere except snowy and very arid areas. Propagation is easy from seed or cutting and in warmer areas young plants often seed themselves and pop up in the landscape.
Lacebark is another rainforest species of Brachychiton and though not common in cultivation it is a better size for the home garden. The flowers are a velvety pink and very pretty. This tree needs plenty of careful pruning when young to stop it becoming straggly; if managed in this way it makes a delicious garden specimen. It tolerates up to three months without water, once established.
Oh what a delight this tree is when it reaches the age of full flowering, usually at about six years old. And every year after that it gets bigger and better – a shower of gold and creamy white cascading down from the top every spring.
Vital statistics
Small tree or large shrub that grows northwards from the Blue Mountain forests, in rainforest and close by open forest. Leaves are bright green, growing in whorls around the branchlet, obovate to a sharpish point, veins strongly marked, to about 16 cm in length. Fruit is a capsule containing brown two-winged seeds.
In the garden:
Very easy to propagate from seed. Tolerates all soils. Likes plenty of water when young. Does best in areas with good rainfall but can survive short droughts, up to 3 – 4 months. Young plants susceptible to frost.
This is a good tree for all but the smallest gardens but if space is limited keep to about three metres with trimming. Regular pinching out of new growth when young will form a neat, rounded shape.
This tree was pruned when young to make it bushy.
GOLDEN PENDA(Xanthostemon chrysanthus)
This golden treasure of a garden tree is well named – gold in colour, gold in overall size and appearance, gold in trouble-free growing. What’s not to like about this lovely North Queensland tree that grows anywhere that’s frost free and has good rainfall – or at least plenty of available water in dry seasons.
Vital statistics
Leaves are simple, alternate or whorled, long (to about 20 cm), thick and leathery, usually eliptic with a blunt point and yellowish mid-vein. Flowers are born prolifically in panicles of golden petals containing many long bright yellow stamens. Flowers may appear at any time but are most spectacular in summer to autumn. When the tree is not in flower it still looks good, with a naturally tidy habit and bright green leaves
In the garden
Very easy to grow in most conditions but does best with a reasonably loamy soil. It doesn’t need fertilising, just regular mulching with leaf litter or sugar cane. It makes a spectacular single specimen in full sun or light shade but like most rainforest plants it grows faster when it has a few companions around such as low growing shrubs. If you border it with annuals or other plants that require fertilising, be careful, because this is another plant in the Proteaceae family that can’t take too much high-phosphorus fertiliser. It’s best to give your flowering annuals light sprays of liquid formulation that doesn’t seep to deep into the surrounding soil.
IVORY CURL (Buckinghamia celsissima)
This north Queensland rainforest beauty can be grown as either a tree or a shrub. In the forest it stretch to 30 metres but when it is grown as a single specimen out in the open where it doesn’t have to compete with other trees the Ivory Curl will multi-stem and grow to the height of a tall shrub or tree to about eight metres. It’s a very popular street tree in Queensland and northern New South Wales but is also comfortable in Melbourne gardens.
Vital statisics
Leaves are long (to 20 cm), simple, young plants with lobes but margins entire in mature plants with a strongly marked mid-vein. Flowers are typical of the Proteaceae; creamy white, in pendant clusters, each long raceme made up of tiny flowers. These appear for a long time during autumn-winter and the tree can be so thickly covered that from a distance it looks like snow! Seed pods are green and clustered along the stem after the flowers have gone, turning first a greyish-buff colour and then a dull black. They have a little tendril-like appendage at the tip and are very attractive when dried.
In the garden
Ivory Curl will tolerate the worst clay and rocky soils though growth is faster in richer, loamier ground. There is no need to feed when young but if you wish to give your seedling a boost, make sure to use a native plant formula because plants in the family Proteaceae are sensitive to phosphorus overdose, having evolved on soils deficient in this nutrient. Water regularly when young; as the plant matures it can tolerate long periods without rain. Prune for a neat, rounded shape.
This really is one of the best and toughest and prettiest small trees for the home garden. Plant them in a row and you’ve got a spectacular hedge.
Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora)
This is a MUST for any home garden. It’s a small tree that can be encouraged to multi-stem and remain at shrub height, the flowers are pretty and bright green leaves are lemon-scented and flavoured – in my opinion it’s the best source of lemon flavour to use in cooking apart from lemons themselves. A lot more palatable than, for example, lemon grass.
If I could choose only one rainforest tree/shrub for my garden, this would be it!
Vital statsitics
Leaves are simple, opposite, light green, narrowly elliptic to a drawn-out point, margins can be lightly toothed, oil dots typical of rainforest plant leaves in the Myrtaceae family (myrtles) and give out a strong lemony smell when crushed. Flowers are creamy white and fluffy. The fruit has a flower-like appearance because of the five sepals arranged around the central capsule.
In the garden
Lemon myrtle is a tough performer in all climates except the coldest and driest. It tolerates any soil but grows faster and with brighter, lusher foliage in moderately deep, loamy soils. Water regularly when young, mulch with sugar cane or any vegetative matter at least once a year in spring, feed with any general tree/shrub fertiliser. Prune early and regularly to limit height and encourage bushiness.
This is a hard plant to propagate from seed; cuttings will take but very slowly. Leaves can be harvested for cooking when needed, or dried and kept bagged. Both fresh and dry leaves make a fragrant tea.
In the home
Lemon myrtle leaves can be used in the kitchen whenever you want a lemon flavour. The leaves are especially useful in infusing dishes made with either milk or cream as they don’t cause curdling. They can also be used in pickles and chutneys.
And there is one more thing about this marvellous plant – the essential oils in the leaves have disinfectant and biocidal properties. When distilled they are used a great deal in homeopathic medicine and also in mainstream products for treatment of minor skin problems and household cleaning. Using the leaves as an infusion in hot water MAY help with intestinal parasites and maintain good health in the digestive and urinary tract. There is no hard scientific evidence of this but it won’t do you any harm! I have a friend who for years has drunk infusions of leaves (fresh and dried) three times a day for years and claims she owes her excellent health and digestion to this. I often drink lemon myrtle “tea”, from my own tree, and chill infusions to make a lightly-flavoured, slightly astringent lemonade, with whole leaves and lemon slices floating in it. This infusion can also be frozen into ice blocks.
Grey myrtle, Carroll (Backhousia myrtifolia)
The Grey Myrtle doesn’t possess the lovely lemony qualities of its better known Lemon Myrtle cousin but it is still an attractive shrub with a light, spicy-sweet aroma. It looks very similar, though the leaves tend to be shorter and more ovate with more tapered tips. It’s a small enough tree for any garden if trimmed to an appropriate height. The leaves can be used in cooking, in the same way that you would use nutmeg or cinnamon.
Tree Waratah (Alloxylon flammeum)
Now here’s a showy spring-flowering tree for the larger home garden, which is quite easy to grow in warmer, wetter areas. It doesn’t usually flower until it’s about ten years old but when it does the big, red blooms are worth the weight.
Vital statistics
The leaves are handsome: large, shiny, simple, alternate and often lobed when mature. Flowers are rather like those of grevillea species, large and clustered, bright orange-red with long, tubular perianths arranged in a corymb. The seed pods are interesting too, long and rectangular containing flattish, winged seeds. These pods can be dried and used in floral arrangements.
In the garden
Not a tree for small gardens but a lovely as a specimen tree or in a cluster of other trees and shrubs. It’s frost-tender when young and needs plenty of water at this early stage. Some light feeding with a low phosphorous native plant fertiliser for strong growth will help too though is not essential except in very poor soils. Trim new growth regularly to stop the young tree becoming straggly.
Propagate from seed or hard wood cuttings (slow!).
The Dorrigo Waratah (Alloxylon pinnatum) has proved difficult to propagate past the seedling stage but if you can find one in a native plant nursery it’s worth growing. For one thing, it’s not as tall as its more flamboyant cousin. The flowers tend to be less prolific but are an attractive pinkish red and look great in a vase.
Golden myrtle (Thaleropia, formerly Metrosideros queenslandica)
Thaleropia is a lovely tree from the mountain forests of far north Queensland and it doesn’t grow very large, 10 metres at most, making it suitable for the home garden.
Vital statistics: The glossy green simple leaves are slightly serrated with a prominent mid vein. They are born close to the stem and have typically pointed rainforest species “drip tips” at the apex. The bright golden flowers are five-petalled and slightly cupped from the centre, with long and prominent stamens.
In the garden: Thaleropia will do well in any warm climate garden and, once established, needs very little care. It can be pruned every autumn to control height and promote bushiness, if desired. Regular watering is required in dry periods – just a good soaking with the hose once a week will do.
Pink Euodia (Melicope elleryana)
This is a very pretty small tree which is sometimes used in street plantings – unwisely, in my opinion. This is because it needs more careful positioning and management than most local authorities are able to give it when young. In the home garden, it is much more rewarding.
Vital statistics: Leaves are opposite, compound, three soft, pale to mid green leaflets, the central one usually larger than those at either side. The tree originates in lowland subtropical forests, often swampy areas, north from the northern New South Wales coast to north Queensland, coastal Northern Territory and Pacific Islands. The flowers are a soft, bright pink, born in panicles on short stalks along the branches. Fruits are little capsules, carried in clusters and containing black seeds which are quite easy to propagate.
In the garden: A very suitable tree for even a small home garden provided it is, like all trees and large shrubs, kept well away from buildings. Once established it requires regular watering during dry periods, will grow in most soils and is capable of withstanding short periods of waterlogging. The most important thing is to prune the tips regularly when young, to shorten the internodes (length of branch between lateral branching). This will promote bushiness and a good, tight shape. Otherwise the tree will have a sparse appearance. Such regular pruning also promotes flowering, which occurs during summer.
Warm climates only. Pink Euodia is very susceptible to cold winds and should be given a sheltered position.
I based the early part of Lyrebird Mountain, and the character of Anna, on the lives of Australian naturalist-photographer Hilda Geissmann and her family.
The Geissmanns did indeed come to Tamborine Mountain, south of Brisbane, in the 1890s and established a famous guesthouse there, Capo di Monte, the name of which is perpetuated today in a building, a retirement community and two streets.
I wrote a short biography of Hilda, published in 2023, and put the research material gathered during the creation of that book to good use in the early chapters of Lyrebird Mountain.
Capo di Monte, like The Excelsior, was an instant success that lasted several years and did indeed attract visitors from all over Australia and the wider world – artists, writers, naturalists, scientists, theatre folk, politicians, graziers and wealthy merchants, minor royalty and the governors who represented the British Crown.
The Geissmann children served these luminaries, learned from them and, in the case of Hilda and her brother Barney, acted as guides through the rainforest that they knew so well.
Hilda, like Anna, loved the forest and always felt at home there. She learned to be an excellent ornithologist, orchidist and all-round naturalist, her photographs and articles appearing in many newspapers, magazines and learned journals.
The character of Berthe almost exactly corresponds with what we know of Elfriede Geissmann, whose second name was Berthe, and her physical description matches the photos of Elfriede I have in my possession. Her husband, William Felix, did indeed run off unexpectedly to Paraguay, never to be seen again or heard of by his family. The scene that takes place in the Brisbane Botanical Gardens, during World War 1, when his effects are handed over to his abandoned wife by a mysterious German woman, is exactly what happened in real life. And though “Madame Kurcher” is a character of my creation, the Geissmanns did become very involved in Theosophy and Hilda herself, as well as her siblings, was influenced by it all her life.
Once I have got Anna through her childhood, so like Hilda’s, my book takes flight and the Geissmanns are relegated to true history. Anna’s story and that of her brothers and sisters bears little resemblance to that of Hilda and her family, though facts do intrude here and there. For example, the guesthouse did burn down (though two years after the date in Lyrebird Mountain) and though one of the Geissmann brothers went to the 1914-18 war he returned only slightly wounded. Hilda and her sister Elsie married local farmers but they were cousins, not brothers, and though Hilda’s husband, Herbert Curtis, was wounded and did indeed convalesce in the English Lake District, and their house was named Windermere, he was a kind and good husband (or so I’ve been told by those who remember him) and Elsie’s husband, Willie, was certainly not a money-hungry philanderer.
I doubt very much Hilda ever had a love affair like Anna’s but her long friendship with the naturalist/journalist Alec Chisholm, very much her mentor, was reimagined by me into the friendship between Anna and Arnold Clemens. Chisholm, however, did not end his days on the mountain. His death was terrible to Hilda and she paid a moving tribute to him in a speech she gave to the Queensland Naturalists’ Club in 1976.
Again, Hilda’s lifelong closeness to her sister Elsie is mirrored in Anna’s with her sister Liza who lives close by to her on Lyrebird Mountain. Elsie was very musical – taught music in fact – just like Liza and there is some hint in my research material that she gave up a potential concert career to come home and help her mother run the guesthouse. I doubt, though, that Elsie was a lesbian or even knew what one was! She and Hilda grew cut flowers commercially, just like my Anna and her sister and were each other’s confidantes in all matters.
The character of Freddy does draw somewhat on that of Hilda’s best-known brother, Barney. Barney’s memoirs show him to be a charmer with a fine turn of phrase and a great sense of humour – and indeed, when the family first went to the mountain, he was for some poorly-explained reason left at the bottom overnight and had to find his own way up the next day. Imagine that, for a twelve year old town boy! And there was no part-aboriginal guide, either. Barney Geissmann was always a resourceful man who could turn his hand to most things. He is still remembered on the mountain today though, like his briefly famous sister Hilda, there are very few left who actually knew him. And they themselves are now old.
The character of Deirdre Bell is very loosely modelled on a sort of composite of the artists Daphne Mayo and Vida Lahey, both good friends of Hilda’s (especially Daphne) and both connected with Tamborine Mountain. In her, I have tried to convey some of the New Woman, often deliberately naughty and outrageous of prevailing morals, that appeared in Brisbane’s tiny, self-consciously kultured art community of pre-World War 1 Brisbane. A stuffy little city in a huge, barely populated state dominated by the competing values of graziers and blue-singlet unionised labour. Neither of them particularly sympathetic to the arts. Daphne and Vida were not really like Deirdre in character but their independence was unusual for the time and research shows there are some similarities
Arnold Clemens, in Lyrebird Mountain, is very obviously based on the writer/journalist/naturalist Alec Chisholm who is now almost forgotten in Australia, except by dedicated older naturalists. He was a self-educated prodigy with a childhood love of nature that became his life’s passion. He befriended and mentored Hilda early in the twentieth century and their friendship lasted until his death, despite the fact that both could be sharp-tongued and outspoken. Chisholm, in fact, could be downright cranky! And you see a touch of that in Arnold!
After I had published Hilligei, Hilda’s biography, I realised that aspects of her life would make the basis of a novel; in Anna I found the Hilda that my imagination had wanted her to be – more successful, more interesting, more desirable to men. I have set a mystery in the heart of Lyrebird Mountain – the death of Jack Resnik – and there was a mystery at the heart of Hilda’s life, too. Which was that, having achieved modest fame and recognition from the natural science world over a decade or so, she just packed it in. Her name no longer appeared in journals and she stopped taking photographs. Her correspondence with leading naturalists of the day dwindled. She remained a lifelong member of the Queensland Naturalists Club and continued to host and help organise club expeditions to Tamborine Mountain but the Hilda whose knowledge of birds and plants was so respected, who could find the elusive Albert’s Lyrebird nest and photograph it when nobody else could, who wrote articles about her interests that were full of charm and refreshingly non-stuffy, took early retirement. She lived to be almost one hundred, as a farmer’s wife, flower grower and pillar of her community. But by the time she was in her forties, these mundane activities had become her lot.
And as far as I know, she was quite happy with it. When I started my research for Hilligei I interviewed several people who had known her, both family and friends. They all remembered her as a nice old lady. But none of them had more than a vague awareness of her youthful fame and contribution to Australia’s natural science. Sic transit gloria and all that. The captains and the kings depart.
And I like to think that a little of Hilda Geissmann lives on in the Anna of Lyrebird Mountain.
Well, it’s not a murder mystery. Though there is a mystery at the heart of the book and that mystery may – or may not – be the result of a murder.
It’s not a romance novel. Though there is romance woven through the story, not just of the kind between humans but the romance of natural things; the romance that’s around us everywhere, every day, if we only learn to look for it.
It’s not a crime novel. Most of us go through our lives, thank the Powers, without being directly affected by crime, though we know it is out there and that we must try to avoid it. A crime may have been committed in Lyrebird Mountain – a terrible crime. And if it was, who dunnit?
It’s not a historical novel although the history of Queensland, Australia and the wider world is recorded through events that affect the characters in the book – over more than a century.
It’s not a family saga – in the usual sense of the word. It is essentially the story of one woman’s life but her story carries the reader through six generations of women with whom her life is linked, from mother to daughter.
It’s not women’s fiction even though the main character is a woman and the story looks at life through a woman’s eyes. I don’t pretend to know the hearts of men; I can only experience them from the outside. But there is other stuff in Lyrebird Mountain besides the affairs of women…war gets a mention and politics and historical events and…yes…even cricket.
An author is by trade and inclination an observer of life and my observation is that novels rarely tell about life as it is. Of course they don’t; the job of the novelist is to shock, excite, thrill, entrance, intrigue, move you to laughter or tears. It’s entertainment, baby, not real life.
And yet, I have learned more in my life from novels than I ever learned from a non-fiction book.
So Lyrebird Mountain is not a genre novel. I did not want my characters to be larger than life, I wanted them to be the kind of people we encounter in our own lives. Life is not well-organised like fiction and people do not always have clear motives. Nor behave logically. Situations go unresolved, mysteries remain unsolved. It’s not neat, it’s not tidy, it’s LIFE.
So when people ask me what Lyrebird Mountain is about, I find it hard to answer. I say it is about love and loss, strength and resilience in the face of misfortune, the power of passion and the even greater power of place. It’s about the relationship between grandmothers and granddaughters and the cruel impact of war. And it’s all set against the historical evolution of a still-young nation finding its place in a sometimes terrifying world. (Yes, yes, I knew it’s an old continent with an older set of inhabitants but I’m talking about nationhood.)
I have often relied on allusion to tell my tale, rather than spelling it all out. As much as possible I have tried to treat cliches like potholes in the road – to be avoided. I don’t insult my readers by telling them the bleedingly bloody obvious! I prefer to let them work it out for themselves. Those who can’t are welcome to discuss it here on my blog.
There is, for example, a constant allusion to the mystery of the rainforest, especially higher-altitude forest like that of Lyrebird Mountain, where mist throws a gauze over the trees and clouds of vapour float up the gullies. I have always found rainforests of any kind – from the mighty Tongass of Alaska to the jungles of Africa – to be mysterious places. Spirits lurk there, ancient as the trees, though spirits of what I am never sure. Like Anna, I sense them, I feel them around me. Whispering. The life of the rainforest, whether in the canopy or on the littered floor, is secretive. If you listen, there is always a scuffling or a rustling or the cries of birds that often have a wailing eeriness to them. As if song or cackle belongs only to sunlight.
Such mystery, such hints of a magic powerful but unseen, can affect people in strange ways. Men have gone mad in rainforests; especially those who have gone there to cut timber and found themselves alone among the tree shadows, their axes suddenly falling from their hands. Women, in my experience, have a better understanding that keeps them safer; visiting as they do mostly to seek and examine plants and birds, doing no harm.
In many ways Lyrebird Mountain is an old-fashioned book. Deliberately so. I’ve gone against the contemporary trend to recast history through modern eyes and ears, in film, in television in books. Where characters speak and act as they do today and not as they did then. For I have lived through much of the timespan of Lyrebird Mountain and know, too, how my parents and grandparents spoke and behaved. And those of earlier generations. And there are, quite simply, things they didn’t do or say because of the prevailing standards of behaviour. Some bold few might have said and done things that broke the code. But most people didn’t. And those are the people I’m writing about. People who set a high price on reticence, restraint, fortitude, good manners and self-control. And who understood the difference between compassion and sentimentality. This is how they coped with the tough stuff. Looking back, it seems amazing to me that they could be happy in a world where even the rich did not have the comforts, conveniences, services, safety measures, medical treatments, social support and readily-accessible entertainment that we take for granted.
But, by and large, they were. Like Anna and her family, they bore it all and carried on.
This is not, I know, the stuff of great drama. But I wanted to write something real. For the kind of readers who like it that way.
This page is very much a work in progress. I have spent many decades watching birds in my local subtropical rainforest and on this page you’ll meet some of my favourites. I hope to expand the page so that rainforest bird lovers from around the world can post their pictures and descriptions here.
Bird list so far:
King Parrot
Regent Bowerbird
Satin Bowerbird
Wonga Pigeon
Noisy Pitta
Pale Yellow Robin
Sooty Owl
Lewin’s Honeyeater
Bassian Thrush
Yellow-throated Scrubwren
Eastern Whipbird
More birds to come…
All over the world, jungles or rainforests have always been home to some of our rarest, most colourful and least known bird species.
Ever since Long John Silver and other pirates took to walking around with parrots on their shoulders, we’ve coveted those brilliant and talkative birds, to the point where some species have been driven to extinction in the wild. Parrots, which are not of course limited to jungles (think Australian Budgerigar, think New Zealand Kea) are the poster species for those deep, mysterious places where the trees grow tall and the vines grow thick and the constant heat and moisture fosters rampant vegetative growth. Where the shadowed forest floor conceals furtive creatures and serpents can grow to monstrous size. Where insects buzz and seek blood or scuttle in the litter.
Birds are the true beauties of such an environment and some of the most interesting can be found in the rainforests of Australia, east of the Great Dividing Range.
King Parrot (Alisterus scapularis)
The sweet whistle and chatter of the King Parrot rings out across the rainforest, and the adjacent wet sclerophyll woodland, and you’ll look up to see a flash or red and green as they alight nearby, usually in pairs but sometimes in small flocks.
This bird is as friendly as it is beautiful, with a gentle face and nature that makes it more lovable than many other parrots, which can be rather beady-eyed and spiteful.
The male has a red head, breast and belly with vivid green wings, banded at the top with turquoise, vivid blue feathers on the rump area above the blue-green tail. As is often the case with parrots, the female is a little more muted with greenish head, yellowy-green breast and crimson from breast to belly.
King parrots are sedentary but after breeding in the denser forests and mountains near the coast they wander further afield into drier lowland areas.
Call is a high-pitched one note whistle (males) usually accompanied by harsher chattering sounds when flying. Alarm call is more of a metallic screech, like “aaark”.
Breeding is from about September through to midsummer, and the birds nest high up in deep eucalypt hollows. Some of these holes go right down inside the trunk so the young chicks are pretty secure from predators. The nest is a layer of wood chips chewed or naturally decayed to a soft consistency. The female broods the eggs (usually 4 – 6, lustrous white), for three weeks while the male fetches food for her. When the chicks hatch they are fed by both parents for about five weeks until they are able to look after themselves, though they usually stay with the parents until it’s time for them to mate.
King Parrots have a varied diet of seeds, flower buds nuts, fruit and insects. They are frequent visitors to my garden and, though I do not feed wild birds, are tame enough to come and sit on my veranda chairs and look at me hopefully.
Regent Bowerbird (Sericulus chrysocephalus)
Few rainforest birds are as striking as he Regent Bowerbird, pictured here. This bird is slimmer than most bowerbirds, and while the female, poor thing, is rather a drab the slightly smaller male is a masterwork of black and golden yellow. He is yellow from bill and eye to neck to mantle and then again on the primary and secondary wing feathers. The rest is a dense jet black. On the forehead is a tiny tuft or patch of a bright, sub-irridescent sunrise orange-yellow quite impossible to describe and not seen in any painter’s palette.
Females are dull brown on the back with a few arrowhead-shaped pale spots on the shoulders, a black neckband, crown patch and darker-feathered cheek line. Bill is dull brown too. Breast and belly are off-white, with scalloping on the breast and fain dark wavy lines on belly. Juveniles are like females but without the black neckband and facial markings.
The Regent Bowerbird is a shy, retiring type who, like its nest and bower, is rarely seen. When you do see the male, it’s because of the yellow flash as he dives for cover. The bower is a modest two-sided affair, slightly less “finished” in appearance than its cousin the Satin Bowerbird. He decorates it modestly too, with a few pale petals and sail shells and sometimes blue artifacts placed carefully inside the bower. Rather than depending on this collection to attract his temporary mate the splendid Regent courts her up in the nearby trees and shows her the way to the bower of seduction where, once the deed is done, he goes looking for another. And she goes off to build a nest, lay a couple of eggs and raise the chicks.
The nest is very hard to find, usually (but not invariably) high in thick leaves and branches of tree or thick vine, shallow and made from thin sticks and twigs. Eggs are a delicate greenish or greyish white with darker streaks and blotches. Breeding season is October to January-February, before the usual onset of the subtropical wet season.
The Regent Bowerbird occurs mostly in the coastal and montane rainforests and adjacent wet sclerophyllof northern New South Wales and Southern Queensland, plus Eungella inland from Mackay and some isolated coastal rainforest north of Bundaberg.
The Regent BB is not much of a vocalist: the male communicates alarm calls and warnings to other males (and possibly come-ons to females) with typical harsh, raspy bowerbird calls. Those with keen ears may hear him apparently serenading the females with long, soft, meditative songs that mimic other birds. The female is usually silent.
Food is mostly fruit, with the native tamarind (Diploglottis australis) being a favourite.
Nest is a shallow saucer of long, thin sticks, less robust than that of Satin Bowerbird. Usually well above ground and in thick vines or tree foliage. Eggs: usually 2, Creamy white with faint tinge of grey or green, “painted” with wavy lines and spots and blotches and scribbles, dark brownish, olive and tinges of pale mauve.
Satin Bowerbird(Ptilonorhynchus violaceus)
The Satin Bowerbid is familiar to most people who live on the east coast of Australia from the forests of south eastern Victoria to southern Queensland. This is a handsome, confident bird which boldly sets up bowers in parks and home gardens just as easily as it does in the forest, braving domestic pets, lawn mowers, people and cars to pursue its construction goals.
In fact I know a male Satin Bowerbird who has, for some years, persistently built and rebuilt his bower within ten metres of a house wall on one side and a busy barbecue/entertainment area on the other, right by a path and close to a well-maintained lawn. He prudently hops out of the way when people pass, or flies to a low nearby branch but is quite happy to hop around if you come with an offering of bright blue objects such as clothes pegs or Evolvulus flowers. (NOT ringed bottle tops!).
Male Satin Bowerbirds are chunky and smoothly rounded and always look rather pleased with themselves. They are a rich black all over, with an iridescent bluish sheen and lovely violet eyes. Beak is white. Females are greenish all over with dull brown wings and creamy buff breasts and bellies with a definite but sometimes hard to see greenish band around the chest. Beak is dark grey, appearing black in the field. Juvenile birds are similar but lack the breast band and have brownish foreheads.
The nest is shallow and made of small twigs and dry leaves, well-hidden in upright tree forks in outer foliage of treees, or in clumps of twigs or mistletoe. Casuarina trees are specially favoured. Eggs: 1 – 3. Dark cream or brownish cream with blotches, spots, streaks and wavy lines in dull brown or brownish green or pale mauve.
Wonga Pigeon (Leucosarcia melanoleuca)
These big, plump pigeons can drive people mad! True! In the summer when the males are calling their long, monotonous, medium-pitched call, repeated over and over, causes some folk to shut their windows, curse, and wish for a shotgun! And indeed, in days of yore, they were commonly shot for food though as they are usually solitary birds a single Wonga, however juicy of breast, wouldn’t provide much of a feed/
Wongas are usually found on the edges of rainforests (and inhabit wet schlerophyll forests too) where they can be seen waddling along peacefully, head down, pecking. They are dark grey on the head and back with a grey neck and chest dramatically decorate3d by a long, vee shaped collar. The underparts are white with many markings that from a distance look like spots but are in fact little “u” shaped patches.
Seeds, fruits and berries are their food and they forage for them on the ground rather than in trees and bushes.
They are true love birds, mating for life. The next is quite a large flat arrangement of twigs, on a tree limb or in a fork, very simple and without embellishment. Eggs: 2. White.
Noisy Pitta (Pitta versicolor)
(Photo courtesy of Geoff Eller)
The Noisy Pitta really isn’t all that noisy and in fact is no noisier than any other pitta but its distinctive “Walk to Work” whistle rings through the forest when it is breeding time and the males are proclaiming their territorial boundaries. This is a splendid bird to see as it hops along the rainforest path, poking into the tree litter for grubs. It will also eat small fruits and lizards and is particularly partial to snails, which it cracks open on rocks with workmanlike skill.
This is a truly beautiful bird of brilliant colour with its chestnut cap, black face and throat, vivid green and blue wings, buffy yellow-to-apricot breast and bright orange to scarlet vent.
Though the Pitta is quick to flee at the sight of a human it doesn’t go far on its stubby wings and if you stay still and quiet you will see it alight not too far away, watchful but happy to continue with its eternal search for food. The strong, longish bill is a useful tool for poking and prodding bark and tree roots.
There are two other types of Pitta found in Australia; the rare Red-bellied Pitta, much sought after by birdwatchers, is found in the far north of Cape York and the Rainbow Pitta is limited to the top end from Darwin across to the Kimberley. All have similar habits.
The Noisy Pitta is the most common, ranging from North Queensland down the east coast to south of Sydney. It’s a true rainforest bird but sometimes strays into adjacent wet sclerophyll forest or drier scrub.
Breeding season is shorter in the north of its range, from late spring through February; further south it starts in July. The number of eggs is usually four but can be half that, or as many as five when breeding conditions are good in the south. The southern eggs tend to be larger, too, than those of northern birds. Strange, because the northern rainforests offer better food and the heavier rainfall that brings out the big forest snails.
Nests, built by both sexes, are usually on or very near the ground at the base of roots, rocks or tree stumps. They are made, rather nicely, from locally available materials such as bark, twigs, plant fibres and moss, with feathers woven in for insulation and lined with soft material such as grass and lichen, bound with animal dung. Some birds make a little ramp at the entrance, from sticks and mud or dung. A spacious yet snug “home” is obviously important to parent Pittas who raise their brood together during the height of the wet season.
Pittas that inhabit and breed in montane areas usually migrate to lower, warmer ground in winter. In some areas numbers are believed to be decreasing due to human encroachment and disturbance.
Pale Yellow Robin (Tregellasia capito)
This shy little bird is a true denizen of the deep rainforest (though sometimes found in adjacent woodland) and is very easy to overlook as it flits quietly from tree to tree, often perching sideways on a vertical sapling to check you out. It’s certainly a lot less bold than the better-known Eastern Yellow Robin and in fact the two are not closely related.
The Pale Yellow Robin has a drab greyish green back with a white throat to just above the short, sturdy bill. The belly is pale yellow down to the vent and the legs are an inconspicuous buff. The head is quite large compared to the body; tail is short and squared at the end. The alarm call is a sharpish repeated chah and its other call is a quick, sharp whistle of three to four notes, sometimes more and best heard at dawn. Though a quiet bird, in the mating season the call rings out and may be followed by soft little tweets exchanged between the mated pair.
Range is limited to the forests of the coastal fringe from south east Queensland to norther eastern New South Wales; there is also a population in far north Queensland and, as often is the case, these northern birds are smaller.
This bird stays in the lower shrub layer of the forest and from its perch it can pounce on the small beetles and grubs that make up its diet, pecking at them with its strong little beak.
It nests in the forks of saplings or, more commonly, in the thick, well-protected cover of lawyer vine (Calamus muelleri), using leaves from the vine and other plant debris, including lichen, to build the little cup-shaped nest. It breeds once or twice in the July to December season, producing two pale green eggs with brownish markings.
Human encroachment on its habitat is reducing the numbers of the Pale Yellow Robin.
Sooty Owl (Tyto tenebricosa tenebricosa)
This is one of the most dramatic owls in looks and behaviour. It’s the third largest Australian member of the family though a fully mature female Sooty is close in size to her counterpart the Rufous Owl, found much further north.
The rainforest is not the prime habitat of this big owl; it prefers wet schleropyll coastal forests from south east Queensland to southern Victoria but where rainforest is adjacent it will hunt there, it’s long, descending, harsh whistle sounding like a falling bomb, often startling unsuspecting campers and forest dwellers on hot summer nights.
This is an owl more often heard than seen by humans as it is both stealthy and highly secretive. It’s darkish grey colouring conceals it well among the shadows and the big, mournful eyes set in a wide, pale, heart-shaped face can only easily be detected by torchlight, when they give off a ruby red shine that’s diagnostic.
The grey (with hints of russet) plumage is speckled with small white spots which give the bird a sparkling appearance when looked at by torchlight. The grey breast is also spotted with white. The pale facial disc is rimmed with darker feathers, the legs are thickly feathered like white leggings and the talons are massive, capable of seizing prey up to the size of a rabbit. Rabbits, small gliders and rodents are this bird’s main prey.
The secretive Sooty Owl likes to roost in deep tree hollows and trees that have become hollowed out from the inside. Here it also nests, as well as in caves. Breeding is usually March- June and again in spring. Eggs are large and white, usually two but only one chick survives to fledge – though two surviving chicks have been reported, at least in captivity. They don’t leave the nest until at least six months old.
There is a Lesser Sooty Owl in far north Queensland which is similar in most respects, though smaller and the sexes closer in size.
I used to do a regular walk where the track went right through an old, hollowed out Argyrodendron tree. A few metres up in this tree lived a lone Sooty Owl, or at least I never saw another owl with her. Every time anyone walked under the tree she would scream! Louidly! In fact it was quite fun to sit quietly nearby and watch the shock on the faces of hikers as they triggered this ghostly shriek! Sometimes I’d sit there at dusk and wait for her to emerge and you had to look hard because she would emerge like a silent dark shadow, wingbeats barely audible unless you were listening for them. And then she’d be away through the darkening trunks of the Bunya Pines, off to hunt. I’ve also listened to the Sooty Owls in my nearby forest at night and when their calls give them away I can sometimes catch them in the spotlight, sitting on a branch. It’s the red eyeshine that gives them away.
This bright, energetic small honeyeater can often be seen darting out from flower to flower in search of nectar, often hanging upside down from blossoms and dabbing at them with its curved black bill. It’s quite aggressive and the males will see off competitors in the breeding season (early spring to midsummer) or else engage in lively chases with females – for the casual observer it’s hard to tell the difference!
The call is unmistakable, a piercing staccato, frequently uttered and because this is a common bird in its habitat, the rainforests of the east coast from north Queensland to Victoria, any birding trip in those areas will yield several pairs of Lewin’s Honeyeaters in close proximity.
Sexes are similar, with olive, grey-green backs, greyish buff on the breast, more richly olive on the wings. Feathers around the eye are dark and the most conspicuous feature is the pale-yellow ear patch and creamy white line (gape) along the bill to the eye. Two north Queensland species, the Graceful and Yellow-spotted Honeyeaters, are very similar but smaller, with smaller ear patches and different calls.
The nest is a strongly built cup made from leaves, moss and bark strips, lined with down from the parents’ ‘breasts and woven with spiders’ webs. It is cunningly secured by the rim on one side to a thin branch, hidden among thick foliage. Eggs are two, sometimes three, creamy white with brown blotches at the fat end.
Though a common bird of rainforest, the Lewin’s Honeyeater is also found in wet eucalpyt forest and sometimes in adjacent lighter woodland.
Bassian Thrush (Zoothera lunulata)
The Bassian Thrush (Zoothera lunulata) has a very large range – and yet it’s rarely seen and almost unknown to all except those birdwatchers who spend their time looking for it in the forests of Eastern Australia.
This is because its colouring is the typical brown-beige-olive of birds who spend their lives grubbing about in the rich litter on the forest floor. What’s more, it’s a remarkably self-effacing bird that seems perfectly content with its own company. It needs to keep quiet in order to listen for insects scuttling among the leaves and its own call.
In colour it resembles the feral Song Thrush though its undermarkings are a much stronger pattern of black and white rather than the dark-on-buff streaks of the latter. Its bill is much stronger and longer, too. They are both in the same overall family, the Turdidae, but apart from appearance their habitats are very different.
The Bassian Thrush inhabits the denser forests – rainforest and wet sclerophyll – of the eastern coast and mountains, from southern Queensland round to western Victoria and the Mt Lofty and southern Flinders Ranges in South Australia. It is also found in north Queensland. There has been a good deal of argument as to whether there are several races or even different species of this bird, known commonly as Olive or Russet or White-tailed. Different bird books will tell a different tale and the common name in former years was “White’s Thrush”! To my mind, they are all one species for general birdwatching purposes, with any perceptible differences reflecting differing habitats, individual feather patterns and even song.
The song is rather like that of a feral Song Thrush but truncated to a few strong notes, heard usually only at dawn or on heavily overcast days. In my experience it varies quite a bit from bird to bird.
Not much is known of its habits. Breeding is mid-to-late winter (depending on area, earlier in the north) and lasts until midsummer – or a bit later. The nest is a rather clumsily-assembled moss-covered open bowl of dried grass, leaves, bark flakes and other such matter. Eggs are a pretty pale green or bluish green with red-brown blotches, usually 2 – 3. Both parents contribute to nest-building and raising the chicks. Once this is over, the adults appear to go their separate ways.
You normally find them on a rainforest path where they forage among the litter, occasionally giving a little hop like an introduced thrush. When humans approach, they usually run a little way and either stand motionless, relying on camouflage to conceal themselves, or disappear into the surrounding cover.
Continuous clearing of forest means they are inevitably threatened and because they are so little seen, or understood, their numbers are unknown. That’s the problem with such shy birds – they can cease to exist as a species before anybody realises it! Let’s hope that doesn’t happen with our only true native thrush!
This is a dear little bird that can be hard to spot as it scuttles busily about the rainforest floor, usually in mountainous areas. Yet around camping rounds and houses it quickly makes friends with humans and comes hopping around hoping for handouts.
Once known as the “Devil Bird” for its black mask, this largest of the mainland scrubwrens is also the most distinctive but it is very particular as to habitat. It needs just the perfect mixture of vegetation and running water in order to breed.
For example, Yellow-throated Scrubwrens are common in the general region where I live, because there is a lot of upland rainforest. Yet on my mountain, its flanks covered in the usual rainforest of the region and with several protected areas of national park, the bird dwells only in one small part. And this has been the case since the first birding records from the late 1800s so we can’t blame increasing urbanisation.
Strange to tell, this limited YTS territory includes one of the busiest parts of the mountain in terms of human traffic!
One of the easiest ways to find a YTS is the distinctive nest of large, domed nests, bound with dark moss, which overhang creeks or, sometimes, forest paths. In earlier times another name for this species was the “black nest bird” because of these nests.
Breeding takes place any time from mid-winter to the end of summer. Eggs are two or three, very pretty, pale beige to mauve, deep brown at the fat end, lustrous, sometimes with dark flecks and blotches. Mating pairs are thought to return to the same nests which are often used also by Large-billed Scrubwrens.
The song is distinctive but delicate and hard to hear, full of airy trills and warbles. Alarm calls are much like those of other scrubwrens; a scolding chatter of two or three harsh notes. There are reports that these little birds, with their distinctive masks, yellow throats and reddish eyes, also mimic other small birds.
Usually found in pairs of small family groups.
Eastern Whipbird (Psophodes olivaceus)
Almost everyone knows the sharp crack of the male Eastern Whipbird, it’s a sound familiar to all those who walk in the rainforests and wet sclerophyll forests of eastern Australia, from Queensland to Victoria.
It has sometimes been called the Coachman or Coachwhip Bird because its plumage resembles the uniforms often worn by the drivers of horse-drawn coaches in earlier centuries.
And indeed it is a very smart bird, mostly olive-brown (a colour that used to be known as “olive drab” back in coachman days) with black head and sharp crest, black throat and black-and-white striped breast, with a long white patch down either side of the neck. Neat but not gaudy, as a friend of mine used to say.
These birds forage among low shrubs and leaf litter for their insect prey and always seem busy. And always together. Whipbirds form permanent couples and are rarely parted. The long, whistling call, ending in a decided “crack” is that of the male and the female instantly responds with a double whistle. Why they do this so continuously I’ve no idea. They are most vocal in the early morning, when they are at their busiest and all the other birds are calling too. Whether the constant calling is territorial, as is so often the case, has not been ascertained. And it can’t be their standard mating call because they do it at all seasons. Just as likely is that they are constantly keeping in touch because its hard to stay in sight in the thick brush of their natural habitat.
Besides the well-known whipcrack, the birds have a sharp, chattering alarm call.
I often sit and watch whipbird couples. They’ve been called shy” but I think that’s more about the habitat in which they live and where they are so well-hidden. In fact, I find they habituate themselves to people quite easily, as anyone lucky enough to have them in the garden will know. Certainly, if I stay still and quiet, they will come close and, after a couple of inquisitive looks, continue foraging.
Young Whipbirds are particularly curious. They stay with their parents for several months, before flying away to establish their own territories, though sometimes a couple raises a second brood if the July to December breeding season enjoys reasonable rainfall. I’ve never heard them call during their juvenile stage but presumably they are listening hard and know instinctively how to use their voices when they leave home. To find four Whipbirds, parent and their young in full adult plumage, hunting through the undergrowth happily together, is not unusual.
Recently I spent more than an hour watching a pair of Whipbirds busy at the edge of the rainforest, flying from the shrubbery to a thick patch of bracken and back again. After a while I could see that after each exchange of calls, one bird would fly or hop to where the other was calling and they’d both hunt insects together for a while. It made me wonder whether the calls are a way of trading information, with one summoning the other by calling “Hey, look what I’ve found”!
They maintained a circuit, investigating an area thoroughly before flying on to the next and doing this so continuously and following an obvious pattern that I was able to observe what I believed to be their territorial boundary, because they never crossed beyond a certain point in any direction. I had to move with them, of course, but not all that much, so perhaps the territory is not large. I shall go back and watch them again, as I have done with other Whipbird couples over many decades now.
I also observed that this pair was quite alone. Either they had failed to breed or any chicks from that season had long since fledged and gone out into the world.
Nesting is solely the task of the female who builds a solid cup of bark and twigs, disguised on the outside by bits of bracken if that fern grows in their territory. This nest is very well-concealed; if you want to find one you have to sit patiently and wait until it’s obvious that building is underway or else there are chicks to be fed – both parents do this. The only time I’ve ever succeeded in locating a nest is when, after a lot of stealthy investigation, I heard the baby birds cheeping! (And of course, after a quick peek, I went quickly away).
The eggs are attractive; a delicate pale blue with dark spots and blotches towards the fat end.
The best time to hear Whipbirds is early on misty mornings in some quiet mountain spot, when their whipcracks echo down the gorges and up the hillsides. For me, it recalls campfires and coffee and many a happy birding adventure.
Bears! That’s what the Tongass National Forest has in abundance. Blacks and grizzlies. Along with wolves, deer, mountain goats, ermine and a plethora (I love that word!) of marine life in the fjords and seas that abut this 16.7 acre (6.7 million hectare – really, I love the Americans but they ARE backward in some things!) national forest. The largest in the United States.
Bears lured me there this June – I’m a bear tragic! – but also the chance to spend time in a temperate rainforest when much of my working life has been spent in the rainforests of the subtropics and tropics.
I love the Tongass. Others say they find it forbidding, even sinister, and I can see that. All those dark cedars and hemlocks and spruces lowering over the groundscape of root and moss and fern. Like the great forests of pre-industrial Europe there could be witches lurking here, and goblins and worse. Stories are told by the indigenous Tlingit of Goo-Teekhl the Salmon Thief who sometimes attacks humans. Or did, until humans defeated him. But then he got his revenge – by bringing upon them the mosquito.
I am not too worried by monsters and mosquitoes don’t seem too numerous in the deep forest, only by the water and in the open country. And they are only bad in the short summer. The rest of the time the forest is covered in snow. Mozzies are found in MY forests too, the magical rainforests of southern Queensland and northern New South Wales and we, too, have our legends.
What we don’t have is bears. Or otters. Or indeed predators of any mammal kind.
So I went to the Tongass and loved every bit of it. The slight danger of encountering a predator better armed than myself. The slightly unsettling spongy softness of deep moss underfoot. The furious little streams pouring off the glaciers and snowy mountain tops. The deep fjords and bays bejewelled by islands that are also part of the Tongass. The blue glaciers crumbling in dramatic bursts of spray where they abruptly meet the sea. The charming small creatures that scuttle across the paths softened and deadened by pine needles and roughened by cones. The birds – for I am a birdwatcher since girlhood.
There are many fine birds in the Tongass though they tend to be secretive. But handsomest of all is the Bald Eagle and this must be that bird’s spiritual home (though the Canadians might have a thing or two to say about that!). These white-headed heroes of the sky are everywhere – perched on pine branches or seemingly quite at home on buildings and light poles in town, flapping with unhurried majesty across the inlets, diving with deadly accuracy for salmon. They are not as perfectly formed for this activity as are osprey but they are pretty damned good at it all the same.
In the little coastal tourist towns of Sitka and Skagway and Ketchikan it rains a lot in spring and summer and autumn (fall) but temperatures are milder than the interior thanks to the ocean and the great forest. Winters can be snowy but mostly on the mountains all around, that stick up like cake frosting.
These towns, like the capital, Juneau, are surrounded by the Tongass and it hugs them tight in its green hold, buffering them against the savage mountains high above where winds scour the rock faces and glaciers freeze the flow of constant rain.
Skunk cabbage grows thick in the gullies and fruiting canes along the edges where there is more light; food for humans and bears. High on the slopes the Red and Yellow Cedar (Thuja plicata and Cupressus nootkaensis) give way to the Mountain Hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana) and the spruce (Picea sitchensis) rules them all. The meagre Lodgepole Pine (Pinus contorta) huddle together like poor relations, upright and defiant in their low state.
(Above: There are many well-marked hiking trails through the Tongass. And in summer, wild flowers and lush plants compete for sunlight along the forest verge, many of them with medicinal value known to the indigenous peoples.)
There are medicines here close to the ground, Arnica and Angelica as well as the many berries full of vitamin C. In summer the largest dandelions in the world grow here, matching the buttercups for brilliance, digestive gold for bears. Apart from these, most of the flowers of this cold, wet forest are delicate and pale.
The Tongass is not only the largest national forest in the United States but also the largest temperate rainforest in the world. It has much in common with all rainforests everywhere– constant moisture, emergent trees fighting for light, a dark understorey where fungi flourish among the moss and lichen. And yet it is distinctively different in many features, with its snow melt and dominance of trees bearing needled foliage, rather than broad-leaved species as found in warmer forests. Its humidity has a frigid bite and its waters are more lively. And it has secret places where many of its inhabitants must den for the long, dark winter.
If you love rainforests, and you have never been to the mighty Tongass, go there before you are too old to be able to hike its steep trails and thus experience the inside mystery of it. I found myself conscious of my eighty years and knew that because of them I could only access the fringe and wished I had backpacked into there when young enough to go high and long.
But I was still fit enough to go in a little way and feel the dark weight of the forest around me and glimpse a few of its creatures and be happy in my brief time there. Other rainforest lovers will understand!
Different type of Strangler Tree fruit: Top left and bottom to pics, Ficus henneana (which grows in near-coastal NSW, Queensland and the Northern Territory. Two top right pics, Ficus rubiginosa or Port Jackson Fig (grows from southern NSW coast to tip of Cape York).
Death comes to the rainforest in a thousand different ways; slow and fast, gentle and brutal; premeditated and impulsive; silent and terrified shrieking.
This kind of forest – or jungle – is not a gentle place though on a fine day when the sun slants benignly down through the canopy and the sound of a running creek soothes the ear, it can seem that way.
And yet…there is a constant predation of the weak by those stronger and fiercer; above in the tops of the great trees, below in the leaf litter and under the boulders. The rainforest is so filled with life and yet even as we walk through, things are dying all around us. Big insects eat smaller insects and are in turn eaten by birds and small animals. Snakes and lizards slither and scuttle in search of sustenance. Frogs lurk in pools, waiting for dragonflies. Dragonflies swoop down on smaller flies.
And that’s just at ground level. Up above, the ruthless struggle just to make it through another day or hour or minute goes on. Pythons wrap themselves around high branches, eyeing birds’ nests. At night, bats dip and weave through dense foliage. Raptors hover. Leaves wither and drift to the ground, fruit ripens and falls into hungry mouths.
In the rainforest it’s the rule of the Three Fs – Feeding, Fornicating and Fighting.
And there is another “F” that features in the ecology of the rainforest; a silent, stealthy, sinister killer. The strangler fig!
This type of fig, mighty of girth, high of canopy, with its roots spreading like serpents for metres across the forest floor, is hemiepiphytic. This means it actually starts life as a seed dropped or excreted by a bird in branches belonging to a variety of host trees. The crevices where the seeds sprout into life are filled with leaf litter rich in decayed plant and animal matter. This nurtures the seed which produces aerial roots that spread downwards until they reach the ground, where they become terrestrial , growing into a latticework of separate “trunks” that support the tree and, in the process – and this is the cruel part – over time “strangle” the unfortunate host tree by denying it light, food and water.
The epiphyte is now a tree, growing wider and taller and stronger, supported by its wide-spread roots, some of which grow as big and thick as buttresses around the base. But the host is a prisoner, increasingly hidden behind the curtain of inter-twining stems that form the trunk of the new tree, until the old tree collapses and decays into the ground, thus continuing to nurture its killer!
It all takes a very long time. The ways of the rainforest are ancient and patient, beyond the easy measuring of Humankind. As with all the eternal cycle of life and death in this shadowy treescape, Nature is not cruel but merely remorseless, following its essential biodynamic.
Strangler figs grow in all types of warm-to-hot climate rainforest in Indika, South East Asia and the Pacific, Australia has several such figs, including examples of “banyan” type trees with multiple “trunks” from canopy to below ground. Several of these are famous, such as The Cathedral and The Curtain trees on the Atherton Tableland in far north Queensland. These are fine examples of Ficus virens and another famous site for this tree is in Eagle Street, Brisbane, right in the middle of an intersection. Here two seedlings of F. virens and one of F. benghalensis were planted in 1889 by Walter Hill, father of the nearby Brisbane City (formerly Botanical) Gardens.
Growing over a wider range of habitat than F. virens are the Moreton Bay Fig (Ficus macrophylla) and the Small-leaved Fig (Ficus obliqua) which are found from New South Wales right up the Queensland coast. Their huge size at maturity dominates the landscape; in the open they spread their limbs wide and don’t get too tall; in the rainforest their long trunks twist and lean upward to carry their branches into the sunlight.
A young Ficus macrophylla growing happily in a busy street. This tree has not yet developed the rusty underside to its leaves, as happens with most mature trees. The roots develop laterally at the base and form little “pockets” which trap water and leaf litter a fertile place for all sort of ground insects. And a trap, too, because foraging birds, reptiles and small insectiverous critters know it’s a good place to get a feed.
Most widespread and common of the hemiepiphytic figs is the one that carries the common name Strangler Fig – Ficus watkinsiana. This is a giant that is found in most types of rainforest from north of Sydney to north Queensland. Like all its kind, it plays a very important role in the ecology of the rainforest. The fruit, edible (albeit not very palatable) to humans is essential to the diets of many birds and a few mammals. Insects burrow into the flesh and breed there. The wide, thick branches provide nesting and roosting opportunities. Possums bats and gliders hang around in them too. Insects of all kinds can be found in or on the bark, a feast for the reptiles that feed on them. Mighty pythons spread themselves lazily, digesting their latest meal. The thick leaves provide shelter from sun and rain. Down below, the many above-ground root angles are filled with rich litter and housing opportunities for all sorts of small creatures.
Ficus watkinsiana, a giant of the forest.
All the strangler figs have similar leaves and fruit and these similarities are shared with others in the Ficus genus. The leaves are simple, tough, with strongly-marked lateral veins. They may be as small as those of F. obliqua (to 8cm), broadly elliptic, on longish petioles. A distinguishing feature are the long, rolled stipules, growing from the axils (very prominent in F. macrophylla). Another is the thick, milky sap in leaves and stems.
The fruit is not unlike that of the domestic fig but a lot smaller, varying in colour (when ripe) from yellowish-green to deep purple to red, usually with small, pale spots and a nipple on the end.
The roots are opportunistic in the extreme, seeking far and wide for nutrients, snaking over man-made barriers, laughing at our puny efforts to obstruct them. See the ancient temples of India and South East Asia where the mighty banyans clasp the walls and buttresses in a loving embrace which may be mutually beneficial as, with time, the trees support the crumbling buildings that once supported THEM. No wonder many belief systems attribute spiritual dimensions to them, or see them as home too dryads and Strangler Figs and humans have lived together for a long time. In Australia we don’t permit such liberties but we do allow these trees to disrupt the pavements and some public spaces in our cities, putting up with their disruptive powers for the sake of their shade and beauty.
Strangler and other Ficus species belong to the Family Moraceae, along with mulberries, jackfruit and breadfruit. It’s a noble family that has fed the creatures of the Earth for many an aeon. Figs were part of the diet of indigenous Australians, with the fruit of the related Sandpaper fig (Ficus coronata) being preferred.
When you look at one of the great rainforest strangler figs you don’t see it as a murderer, thriving at the expense of another tree which once generously provided the tiny seed with food and shelter. What you see is something heroic in its hugeness and admirable in its will to survive in a highly competitive environment.
As a species, it’s among my five favourite trees. There is just something so splendid about a tree that starts life as a tough little opportunist and then grows into something so magnificent to the eye and also a symbol of botanic redemption – ultimately giving back so much more than what it takes.
Ficus watkinsiana leaf – smaller than F. macrophylla, larger than F. obliqua.
I’m Julie Lake writer, gardener, music lover, horticulturalist and long-time student of the plants and ecology of the subtropical rainforest.
I write books, too. If you are interested in Africa, you might like to read A Garden in Africa, about the remarkable Flora who created a famous garden out of the dry Kenya bush. If you love Wagner and enjoy the novels of the late Terry Pratchett you’ll get a laugh out of Ringtones, a satire on The Ring, where Gods behave badly and dwarves, giants and dragons behave even worse. Both are available on Amazon at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNTL18Q and http://www.amazon.com/Ringtones-Julie-Lake-ebook/dp/B00HNVHLBA.
Both these gardening books are cheap to buy and full of useful advice in an easy-to-read format.
And then there’s my new book, a novel. Lyrebird Mountain. About Anna Bachmann, an ordinary woman who lives an extraordinary life on a mountain just like my own. It’s a family saga of love and loss, triumph and tragedy, war and peace – all those ingredients which make up a good read! Available now on Amazon in printed, ebook and audiobook formats. Go to: https://www.amazon.com.au/Lyrebird-Mountain-Julie-Lake-ebook/dp/B0FMMNDJS7?
I live on top of a mountain surrounded by a magical, mysterious rainforest. It’s the haunt of the Lyrebird, the spirit of this forest, whose call can be heard whistling down the deep gorges on misty winter mornings. For many years I have studied – and written about – the birds and plants of the subtropical rainforest and you will find them here on this website. Just use the tabs to navigate yourself to where you want to go and be sure to leave a comment – I love hearing from my readers.
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