A leopard in her lap

Remembering marvellous Michaela Denis

This is of course an AI generated image because all photos of Michaela are still protected by copyright. It is, however, not so different from the woman I remember, and true to my admiring childhood vision of her. She was, when not in bush clothes, very glamorous.

I walked down Delamere Avenue (as it was then known) one day, with my grandmother, and towards me came a woman trailing two cheetahs on a leash.

She was striking to look at, with glimmering red-gold hair and wearing a suit smarter than one normally saw on the streets of Nairobi, capital of colonial Kenya. But of course it was not her looks that impressed me, it was her two pets. 

I knew who she was, of course, because I had already met her.  As had my grandmother.  This was probably the best-known woman in East Africa in the 1950s – the fabulous, glamorous Michaela Denis: adventurer, writer and, with her equally famous husband Armand, a television star. Kenya was more than a decade then from getting television but we all knew of Armand and Michaela Denis.

A few months earlier the Denis’ had visited our school and brought the cheetahs with them as well as a mongoose.  The mongoose didn’t interest us much because they were common in Kenya and many of us had one as a pet at one time or another but the big cats were a thrill because unless our parents took us on safari, these animals were rarely seen. 

Though it is more than seventy years ago I still remember how much I loved Armand Denis’ talk; he was a big man, bulky around the middle, untidy hair, eyes kind behind his glasses.  He showed us what was then called a “ciné film” on a cloth screen and in his soft Belgian voice explained the images ofwild animals and pigmies and other strange West African tribespeople, similar and yet different to the tribes of our own Kenya. 

He was one of the first – and for a time – most famous of the world’s wildlife photographers, ahead, even, of the revered David Attenborough – and he lived in our backyard!  He and Michaela had built a rather unusual house in the suburb of Langata which bordered the Nairobi Game Park.  Here this ever-wandering couple maintained a menagerie of birds and animals because, like me, Michaela had been a little girl who adored wild things and collected everything from hedgehogs to beetles.  Just as I did.

My grandmother knew Michaela because she had a friend who lived next door to the Denis’ home and while they chatted I kept my adoring eyes on the cheetahs.  How I longed for a big cat of my own!  A lion cub, a leopard, even a Serval cat as one of my friends had, but, most of all, a cheetah.  They were said to be easier to tame than most wild creatures, good with children and domestic pets, able to be house-trained, better than dogs for hunting.  My father used to laugh at the very notion of keeping such an animal in an urban environment.  “They eat ten pounds of meat a day”, he told me.  “Their claws are not retractable, like those of other cats, and they will scratch you.  And just look at their teeth!” 

I gazed at the cheetahs and they gazed at the horizon, perhaps seeking the great Athi plains which were only a short distance from that city street. Their indifference was total, quelling to the spirit. 

“Can I touch them?” I whispered, shy in the presence of my goddess and her Olympian companions.  “No,” said my grandmother.  But Michaela, may her name be forever blessed, took my hand and placed it on the head of one of the cheetahs.  I moved my fingers, scratching the scalp as I did to our dog.  The fur, I remember, was very bristly and not as soft as it looked.  My hand, still covered by Michaela’s, moved tentatively down the neck. The cheetah continued to stand there, perfectly still, unresponsive.  The other one sat down with a grunt, as if resignedly making the best of things while these humans communicated with each other in ways mystifying to cheetah-kind and rather boring.  People passed us on the pavement, some stopping to stare or say hello.  Cars and bicycles went by only inches away.  The cheetahs remained unruffled and apparently unseeing, like carvings on an Egyptian tomb.

I never got to keep a leopard. Or a cheetah. But I did have a monkey – a coup0le of them, in fact, at different times. Here is our monkey Peppy with my daughter Amanda – circa 1971.

After that day I went several times to the Denis’ house, with friends, to “play” with their wild things.  Armand and Denis were very good with children, though they had none of their own.  Besides the cheetahs, of which at one time they kept about half a dozen, they also had a young leopard called, from memory, Chui.  Not very original as this is its Swahili name.  The leopard was playful and firmly imprinted on Michaela who would hug and kiss it and let it lick her face.  Those great canines, so close to her nose; those savage claws so close to her eyes!  It was tame, didn’t seem to mind our presence, walked happily around the house and garden but we were not permitted to touch it.  Leopards, we were told, were unpredictable around people, even when brought up as pets. 

Nonetheless, Michaela preferred her leopard to the cheetahs. She told us it was warmer, more affectionate, bonded better with humans.  Even though capable of doing much more harm.  “Look into the eyes of a leopard,” she would say, “You’ll see feeling.  A connection.  Look into a cheetah’s eyes and you see nothing.”

Though I admired and even adored her in that pre-pubescent way of girls I didn’t agree with her.  I looked into the eyes of Chui and I saw a creature that, even though well-fed and, it seemed to me, lazy because of it, would just as soon reach out one of those large paws and pull me within reach of its jaws.  Just to see what I tasted like! I saw, I believed, a glimmer of hostility.  Or avidity.

Whereas, to me, the cheetahs seemed to be always dreaming of somewhere far away; of running free on the savannah.  Non-threatening but disinterested. Unlike with the leopard, we were allowed to play with them once they got used to us and never did I know them to be even the slightest bit spiteful.  They tolerated our petting and would obligingly chase and pounce on objects towed on a string. They would even, sometimes, nuzzle our hands and rub against our legs, just like any cat.  They were always happy to be fed by us.

But always they retained that aloofness.  We just didn’t matter to them and they wouldn’t miss us when we left. 

Michaela’s big cats were never caged, to my knowledge, merely contained at night so they wouldn’t wander while their humans were sleeping. Cheetahs are daytime hunters while leopards hunt mostly at night but well-fed cats of any kind don’t usually stray too far.  Looking back, now, with the wisdom of years, I wonder whether, being hand-raised, they knew they would not fare well if they wandered over the fence to the national park beyond, where they would have to fend for themselves and their totally wild and free kind might not welcome them. 

The leopard did sometimes go exploring.  A friend’s father, who lived nearby, came home late on night to find a leopard sprawled across his stoep.  He did all the usual things…shouted, threw things, sounded his horn.  The leopard didn’t stir and nobody in the house, or in the servant’s quarters round the back, heard his shouts and horn-blowing so he had to stay there the rest of the night, sleeping in his car.  When he woke, the leopard had gone. 

It could, of course, have been a wild leopard because leopards were plentiful around the Nairobi suburbs back then – snatching dogs, frightening (though never to my knowledge actually harming) Africans on bicycles, always there in the darkness, swift and silent, rarely seen.

But, so the story went, a wild leopard would have run away if confronted by an angry and noisy human.  Or even, if frightened, attack.  The man swore it was Chui and many believed him.  Complaints were made.  The Denis’ denied it was their leopard but other neighbours had similar encounters and, so my grandmother told me, Michaela did take more care to keep her wandering pet confined because she was afraid that somebody might get trigger-happy.  Many people had guns back then, because of the Emergency. 

My family moved to the coast and I never saw Armand and Michaela again though their wildlife documentaries were sometimes shown in a Mombasa cinema and we saw the TV show when on holiday in England.  “I know them”, I used to say proudly to my English cousins. 

I never did get to own a cheetah.  Or even a Serval cat.  I am not in favour of keeping wild animals as pets and hate those American TV shows where people show off their tigers.  There are, I read, more tigers in captivity today in the USA than wild tigers in India and, sadly, they may well be better off there.  But it still doesn’t seem right. 

A natural successor to Michaela, of course, was Joy Adamson and Elsa.  But the Adamsons, living in a game reserve, always intended to return their lion to her wild condition.  Which shows how times – and attitudes –  can change, even within just a decade. 

I re-read one of Michaela Denis’ books recently (thus inspiring this article) and now realise she was a silly woman in some ways and often wildly incorrect…some people would even find her descriptions offensive.  But that is to judge the actions and opinions of the past through the filter of today and so, for her courage and kindness and glamour and passion for conserving wild places long before it became commonplace, she is still my hero!

Oh, and by the way, she couldn’t stand David Attenborough!  Described him as a fool and a thief – apparently for pinching one of Armand’s ideas for a wildlife television program.

A day in Denali

Denali – the very name has magic.  To the Athabascans who speak the Koyukon language it means ‘The High One’, a fitting name for the highest mountain in North America.

Donald The Trump wishes it to be once again called Mt McKinley, named for a particularly dull president of the Republican persuasion, distinguished only by his assassination.  But most Alaskans I have met, and those from the Lower 48 states, prefer the original name for its musical quality.

Denali is a magnificent mountain and all the more powerful and mysterious for being rarely seen.  I am one of the lucky few who have seen it, three times this past June, and I have a badge to prove it – now worn proudly on my down puffer jacket.

The mountain is the crowning jewel in the splendid crown that is Denali National Park and Preserve, 24,464 square kilometres (9,446 sq miles) of mostly unspoiled wilderness. It’s all mountain and tundra and boreal forest, the latter consisting mainly of skinny Black Spruce.  This latter treescape would be monotonous if not for the backdrop of snowy peaks and the pale glaciated waters running through. 

The tundra, by contrast, is undulating and varied by grasslands, swamps, mixed forest and thickets of alder and willow – the haunt of bears black and brown and much other wildlife besides.  Wolves live here and elk and moose and caribou.  Wolverines, too, and squirrels and Snowshoe Hares. Even bison.  In Denali the wildlife is plentiful because this land is too harsh and underlaid with permafrost to permit agriculture or horticulture of any other kind of culture.  For the indigenous peoples it’s always been a source of bounty in summer but the long, harsh winters are an endurance test. 

Today, those Alaskans, indigenous and of European origin, who remain in their small, scruffy, hardship communities all year round have got snowmobiles and wi fi and frozen/tinned food and TV and alcohol and drugs and social services of various kinds to get them through.  Planes, too, when the weather permits flying which it often doesn’t.  But it’s still an isolated few months.

My first day in Denali was a long bus ride to the little town of Talkeetna (below), where most expeditions to climb Mt. Denali take off.  On YouTube it looked like a pretty little town in summer but the reality is less appealing; a rackety tourist trap with dirty toilets.  The buildings have an appealingly traditional look and the inhabitants are friendly…well, they would be, wouldn’t they, when there is little except tourism to keep the township going.  In the siding was something that interested me more, the Denali Star stop-and-go train that as its name implies runs through from Fairbanks to Anchorage.  Many people choose to live off the grid along the route, close to the railroad tracks and when they want to board the train they just flag it down. 

My tour group took the Gold Star service which doesn’t stop anywhere but instead offers comfortable seats in bubble-top carriages, a good lunch, clean loos, snacks and cocktails while the hosts in each carriage offer historical and other information.  In truth, this route is scenic but the scenery gets monotonous after a while because the boreal forest, its Black Spruce trees dying for long stretches from attack by looper beetles, offer little variety.  The rivers are dramatic but they are gone in a glimpse.

That’s not our Gold Star train at top left but me at Talkeetna siding in front of the stop-and-go Denali Star service. Our Gold Star service was much posher, as you can see from the other two pics – including a very talented cocktail bar host. Lower pic shows some of the more spectacular scenery.

Here below you can ride the rails with me a little way. It’s a fun trip but you can see what I mean about the monotony of all those Black Spruces.

Still, there is something rather wonderful about sipping a fine local gin and tonic while watching the world rush by.

After a night at the Grand Denali Lodge, set high on a ledge with great views of mountains and the Nenana River, I was up early for my first full day in the Denali National Park.  There is only one road through here so your chances of seeing a lot of wildlife are limited, especially when you are on an old school bus full of people.  The guide and driver (both women on my trip) do their best but on a hot day (as it Was, in early June) the animals stay under cover.

The brochures, of course, show bears walking along the road and caribou everywhere but the reality is that, like Denali itself, exciting wildlife is not so easily glimpsed.  I remembered younger days when I and my husband would have hiked and camped that country but for most of us it’s a matter of riding that single road, quite busy with tour buses and settling for splendid scenery and the fun of passive “hunting” for wild creatures with binoculars.  Mine were the most powerful on this trip (I’m a birdwatcher) and so only I got a reasonably good glimpse of Dall Sheep high up on the crags – for the others on board the sheep might as well have been white boulders.  We saw a Snow-shoe Hare and, to my delight, a Willow Ptarmigan by the side of the track.  And that was all.  But there were other treats, such as the marvellous Athabascan woman, Shirley, who entertained us with stories about the park and her people and showed us, with appealing irony, a tribal dance.   

Shirley, who keeps Athabascan history and customs alive for the children of her own people, as well as tourists, picks a member of our tour group to give her the beat while, tongue firmly in cheek I suspect, she performs a native dance. What a character!

Usually I dislike this kind of faux native experience, put on for tourists; us condescending to the locals, them laughing at our gullibility.  But Shirley was different and what she had to say was worth hearing.  Several times on the journey our driver/guide kept assuring us how much the Alaskans “loved” their native peoples.  She said it so many times I wondered why she felt the need to do so. It came across as patronising though I know she didn’t mean it that way.

And it’s simply not true or, rather, wishful thinking.  I met a few white Alaskans who felt that the Athabascans, Klingit and other indigenous inhabitants were idle hangers on to the coat tails of American society – getting education, health, plane transport etc for nothing while white Alaskans were doing it tough. 

“Easy to say we took away their land and their traditional ways but we have given most of those back, and more,” one man told me when I sat next to him on a park bench in Anchorage.   “Every aspect of life is easy for them today – store-bought food, snow machines, aeroplanes, boats with motors, high-powered guns, free health care and education, entertainment.  They get everything we get and more – and don’t let anyone tell you differently. And yes, they also get the bad things, like drink and drugs.  But, as with our kids, they make their choices.  There’s a fair bit of murder and domestic violence and brawling in those so-called native communities.”

This last claim is born out by local media bulletins.  And in Anchorage, at least, the homeless street people appear to be mostly indigenous.  But then, I ask myself, what is an Alaskan?  I met some in Anchorage but the hotel staff consisted of Russians, other Europeans and Asians.  Chinese and Indians run most of the shops and eateries.  The guides and drivers in Denali are usually students from the lower 48; the wonderful naturalist guide who took me on a long hike through bear country was Bolivian.  Hunters and recreational fisherfolk can hire indigenous guides from the interior but I never got to meet one.

Only in the little coastal tourist towns on the fjords do you get to meet boat crews and others who are Alaskans born and raised – and even there the shops, despite their “locally manufactured” signs, are operated by Chinese, Japanese, Indians (from India) and other outlanders.

But…back to Denali.  The park tour is still exhilarating but on our tour we were offered two  highlights.  One was a talk by Jimmy Hendricks (yes, he’s heard all the jokes), a true local who has climbed Mt. Denali.  He turned out to be one of the most inspiring speakers I’ve ever heard, yet so simple and down-to-earth in his presentation.  Denali, I discovered, can be more dangerous to climb than anything in the Himalayas, mainly because of the unpredictable weather.  It’s killed a lot of people over the years. Jimmy and his two companions, one a woman, took a month to reach the summit.  A month!  Thank goodness they filmed it; I found it quite the most interesting climbing video I’ve ever seen – and I am not usually interested in mountaineering.

It’s been said that the state bird of Alaska is the mosquito! Big as eagles, the locals will tell you, and twice as fierce. They weren’t in plague proportions when I was there in June, and though they hovered around us in the forest, their whine was worse than their bite!

There are plenty of good hikes around the small Denali tourist village and I did a couple of them, one with a guide.  No bears but the scenery was great and the plantlife fascinating.  We saw half a moose; the front half was stuck in a bush, eating, so all we got was the bum.

The township itself is dusty, hot (on a fine summer’s day) and uninspiring.  A tourist trap where I had the worst sushi ever – had to throw it in the bin.  To be fair, I then went down the street (it’s not long) and had an excellent crepe. Made and served by students.  And all around are the mountains and forest and the river rushes through, milky with snow melt. 

All tours of Denali start with an introductory talk in the visitor centre, perched overlooking a lake. Fluffy little Willow catkins are everywhere in June, including around the Grand Denali Lodge, high above the town. We toured the park in this bus.

An evening hike through the forest with guide Adrian revealed all sorts of wonders – squirrels nests and food storage, wildflowers galore, botanical curiosities, a rushing river and a few birds – but no bears or moose.

I left Denali felt that I had not really been able to do it justice.  I had expected too much from it and too little from myself.  I should have seen it when I was younger and could venture further and experience it all more fully.

But I’m glad to have seen even a small part of it – one of the few really wild places still left in the world.